Year-End Review

It’s the new year, and just a little late for some last-minute year-in-review retrospection. This last year was the first full calendar year of operation for Akihabara Station, and it saw this blog shoot from just my personal site that no-one read to a very narrow niche blog that attracts a small number of visitors a month, mostly from Google. In December alone, the site received over 630 pageviews. In all, this year brought the site 1,676 visits and 3,112 pageviews total.

Here are a couple of the obligatory top-ten lists.

Top Posts

  1. Review: Micro Ace A3251 and A3252
  2. DCC and Headlights (Part 1—Theory)
  3. Links: Tomix N Gauge Track
  4. Tomix DE10 DCC Pt 1: Disassembly
  5. Bridge Girders
  6. Shogatsu Layout (正月のレイアウト)
  7. Addition of Foliage
  8. I Beheld the Mountains, and, Lo, They Looked Surprisingly Good
  9. Tomix DE10 DCC Pt 3: Wiring
  10. Tomix DE10 DCC Pt 2: Planning and Cutting

Search Terms

  1. akihabara station
  2. tomix finetrack
  3. akihabara artificial science
  4. ecoliner japan container
  5. diorama base
  6. akihabara kato
  7. ef66
  8. supdger
  9. kato 10-347
  10. kato em13

Visitors’ Counties

  1. United States
  2. Japan
  3. United Kingdom
  4. Australia
  5. Canada
  6. Russia
  7. Croatia
  8. Germany
  9. Norway
  10. Netherlands

DCC and End Cars: The No-Cut Conversion

OSHI 25-901 circuit board

This is the lightboard from the OSHI 25-901 dining car from the Tomix 92950 “Yumekukan” set. This board sits in a fitted pocket in the galley of the dining car. There are three SMD LEDs (the three white boxes on the left); three long lightpipes run from the LEDs to the rear of the car. The middle LED lights the taillights and signboard, and only lights when this car is at the end of the train—it doesn’t light when the car is at the head of the train. The outer two LEDs light two rows of table-lamps in the dining room of the car, and remain lit whichever direction the train is running. The two leads on the right connect directly to two steel strips that run along the bottom of the car and (in addition to providing much-needed ballast) contact pickups in the trucks. So, when +12V is fed across the leads (I don’t know which direction, to be honest), all three LEDs light; when -12V is provided, only the outer two LEDs light. In addition to the LEDs and resistors, there is what I’m guessing is an SMD bridge rectifier (for the table-lamps)? Although it has six pins instead of the usual four. And there’s some other tiny little resistor like thing by the middle LED.

The challenge before me: Convert this puppy to DCC. The board is too small to modify. And there’s no space to construct a replacement board. And, as many of my readers will know, controlling two independent lights with a DCC decoder requires three wires: Two “function” leads (that when activated, short to ground; when inactive they are left floating), and the +12V blue common. In my favor, there is a fair amount of room in the galley for additional circuitry, beyond just a decoder.

An aside: The last time I wrote about this lightboard, I suggested I had “a clever solution” to this problem. I was wrong, and I won’t bother detailing my many mistakes.

As it happens, Keith Norgrove and others at the MERG were thinking about the same problem (although for different reasons, I’m sure!). MERG member N C Friswell had already devised a very simple circuit for driving (some) bi-polar directional lighting boards. The problem is that this circuit presumes that the lightboard either does not have the necessary resistors to pull down the voltage for the LEDs, or that those resistors can be easily removed. My board (as noted) already has those resistors, and I can’t remove them without risking the entire thing (which is not replaceable if I mess up!). So, on a whim, I emailed Keith, and who in very kind response sent me a schematic.

DCC Bidirection Lighting Circuit

Here is that schematic, neatened up a bit. Unspecified were the values of r1–3 and q1,2. Keith had only given partial specifications of those components, and so consultation with Digitrax (who manufactured my DCC booster) and TCS (who manufactured the FL4 decoder being used—A great big thanks to Jordan and John for their help!) was necessary to fill in the blanks. So here follows the component specification, and some justificatory and classificatory notes.

  • r1: 56Ω ¼W
  • r2, r3: 4700Ω ⅛W
  • q1, q2: 2N2907 (PNP, 1A, 50V, 300mW in TO-92 package)

Q1 and q2 are transistors; since the function leads switch from floating to grounded, PNP transistors are called for (since they switch “on” when the base is grounded). Any small PNP transistor that can handle over about 120mA (preferably at least 200mA) @ 12V will do. This one is a little bit overkill, but it’s small, cheap and readily available at RadioShack.

R2 and r3 are just current-limiting resistors; if they weren’t in place, the current flowing out of the base of the transistors would likely be enough to fry them. An eighth of a Watt power dissipation is sufficient, but obviously larger ones will also do if that’s all you got. I wouldn’t go smaller.

R1 is special. You might wonder what it’s doing there, and rightly so. It’s there for one particular but very important circumstance, namely, so that you can put the car on the programming track without destroying the decoder.

On the programming track, the decoder is put into “service mode”. In service mode, your programmer will send commands to the decoder; the decoder is to respond, in most cases, with a “basic acknowledgement”. A basic acknowledgement is made by drawing a small amount of current, >60mA, for a short period, 6ms±1ms.

With the usual mobile decoders, this is accomplished by giving the loco’s motor a little nudge. This is why, when you’re programming your decoder, the locomotive occasionally jerks a little in response. But the FL4 decoder is a function-only decoder. To do the same thing, it simply activates all of its functions simultaneously, and hopes for the best. Now, if you have LEDs attached to only a couple of the function leads, at 20mA apiece, the decoder may not be able to draw enough current to register a basic acknowledgement. So, TCS recommends programming the FL4 before you install it, with a 100Ω resistor between one (and only one) function lead and the blue common. This would ensure enough current draw for a basic acknowledgment.

I want to be able to program my car post-installation. I’m prone to changing my mind about things. But, if I were to put the car with this circuit on the programming track without r1 installed, as you can see, both the function leads will short out, destroying the decoder (which is only rated to 200mA). In other words, the circuit does bad things when both functions are on, as invariably happens on the programming track (even if it can never happen in operations mode). R1 thus limits the current passing through the circuit to less than 200mA when both functions are on (in fact, at 12V, it limits the current to under 150mA). (This is on the reasonable assumption that q1 and q2 provide about 50Ω of resistance each, for a parallel total of 25Ω; 25Ω+56Ω = 81Ω, which at 16V = just under 200mA of current). When only one function is activated, in operations mode, it only removes about 1V off of the lighting circuit, meaning that the lights will be ever so slightly, but only ever so slightly, dimmer than they would otherwise be.

Here are some final thoughts on r1. First, you may notice that the usual calculations suggest that a 2.2kW resistor is called for. However, since it will ever only see a 200mA load for a fraction of a second, we don’t need such a large dissipation rating. Second, it might be possible, if you know that your train will never see voltages over 12V, to use an even smaller resistor to reduce the dimming of the lights in normal operating conditions. The 56Ω value was chosen assuming that my train might actually see 16V or more, and I wanted to keep the peak current below the FL4’s rated 200mA even at that high voltage. You might even find a decoder that has a larger current rating than that, permitting a very small resistor indeed. However, you should also be aware that while there is a standard for the minimum current draw needed for a basic acknowledgement, there is no standard for the maximum. So while, as I confirmed, the Digitrax Zephyr can handle as much as 1A during a basic acknowledgment, your programmer may not be that robust. Be sure to ask!

So there it is; By my calculations, the lightboard I’m using draws right at 15mA @ 12V; the lightboard in your hands may differ, and so you may find that the specifications above may differ for your application. But if you can’t cut up the lightboard in your shinkansen cab car (say), and you’ve got the space, this auxiliary circuit should do the trick.

Girder Progress!

Here’s another update on the increasingly mis-named “September Project Party” project. I drew up some plans based on the Google Streets views I despaired about recently. Although meticulously prototypical, these new plans would never have worked. Why? Because Tomix FineTrack is not meticulously prototypical. For example, the tracks are much closer together than one can achieve with FineTrack—or would even want to, for fear of model collisions! Likewise, the real girders would look far too narrow with FineTrack. In other words, the compromises that allows us to model Japanese narrow-gauge prototypes with semi-narrow-gauge models on 9mm gauge track mean that meticulous bridge plans won’t actually work.

So I’m sticking with the plans I already have, which do work well with FineTrack, even if they aren’t meticulously prototypical. And I finished my second girder, too.

Despite everything I just said, I have changed the bridge plans a bit to accommodate what we’re seeing in Google Maps. When they’re done, I’ll post updated plans.

Tomix EF81 DCC Conversion: First Thoughts

Well, I got my TCS CN-GP decoder in. I won’t get around to installing it until January at the earliest, but I did take the EF81 it’s destined for apart to see how much work it will take to fit it.

Let me say something about the decoder first. It’s designed to ease the process of converting older non-DCC ready locos with a split-frame design. The decoder comes in two parts, each replacing the original lightboards at each end of the loco. They have SMD LEDs already in place. Three wires run between them. You still, naturally, have to isolate the motor; it’s not a drop-in (nor could it be). But it is meant to minimize or even eliminate tedious frame modification. The decoder also has some fancy features including auto-tuning BEMF and three levels of acceleration and deceleration.

I’m afraid I don’t have any photographs to share just yet. The smaller of the two decoder boards fits perfectly, without need for any modification of anything (just a little Kapton tape to prevent a short), which is great news. The larger of the two boards does not fit without modification: It’s too long. The board can be sanded down a little bit to shorten it, but this won’t be enough; I’ll have to take a small chunk of frame out to accommodate it. Still, it shouldn’t take very much to get this decoder in, and that’s very exciting.

End of Semester & Approaching Holidays

As a graduate student and teaching assistant, the end of the semester is always the busiest time of year. I’ve been grading essays and exams all week, and I still have a huge stack that has to be completed by Monday. Then the wife, baby, and I hit the road for Winter Break Family Visitations.

What I mean to say is this: Progress has been made on Shogatsu, but I haven’t had time to photograph and post it here. Also, It’s not going to get done before we leave, which means it won’t be done in time for the New Year :( But it will get done before school starts again, oh yes. Finally, updates here will be a bit sparse until January rolls around.

Links: Homebrew DCC on the Cheap

Stevenh has designed his own DCC booster from scratch. How cool is that? Better yet, it works with a PC, and he has several for sale. Best of all, he uses his custom booster to drive Japanese trains. Enough said. You owe his site a look.

The Future of Tomix DCC Conversions?

I mentioned earlier that converting to DCC the Tomix EF81 I recently acquired would be a massively painful undertaking. Stevenh has documented how he managed to install a decoder into his EF81, and the process just isn’t inviting. The problem is that his solution involves significant frame milling. The DE10 installation I recently completed (sort of) also required significant frame alteration, and I found that the whole process was rather taxing: I don’t much enjoy the thought of another marathon session with the handfile.

However, a lengthy and informative conversation with Jordan of Train Control Systems (TCS) has convinced me that there is an easier way. The clever fellows at TCS have designed a DCC decoder that replaces the stock lightboards on many split-frame design locos. For many American models, the fit requires no modification of the frame. For my Tomix EF81, I anticipate the fit will require a small amount of modification, as the decoder boards (there are two, one for each lightboard replaced) are slightly longer and thicker than the original lightboards. I think I can handle a small amount of modification.

Most Tomix locos that I’ve come across use a similar lightboard-and-plastic-clip configuration, so I expect that the results of my experiment will, if successful, extrapolate pretty widely, which is a nice bonus.

Links: 1:450

Although my interest lies squarely in modeling Japanese N-gauge—1:150 scale—others desire something…smaller. Much smaller. Like T-gauge—1:450 scale. At this scale, one real meter is very nearly a scale half-kilometer! You could model an entire city in the space of a large basement, without the usual sorts of “selective compression” one would normally need.

T-gauge is a new scale produced by Eishindo, and the entire line is based on Japanese prototype—hence the possible interest for readers here.

The blog 1:450 is at the forefront of T-gauge in the English-speaking world. David Smith doesn’t post often, but he does a great job of staying atop all of Eishindo’s new releases and what others in North America are doing with this new range of models and this new scale.

The Hillock that Thinks Itself a Mountain

Step…8? I lose track. Foliage on the left and newspaper on the right.

Again, progress. What can I say? Sorry I didn’t get this up yesterday: We accomplished all this in a Sunday afternoon. Next weekend we hope to finish with the plaster cloth, and to begin detailing in earnest.

I also got in a Tomix Cleaning Car this weekend. The short version is that I love it; A longer review will come when I’ve had a chance to use it for a week or so.

Amy forests the mountain.

Amy has taken charge of forestation. She has a good eye for color and texture, and she really enjoys the work. She’s made good progress on the left-half of the mountain as you can see. We’ll be paving the path to the shrine soon, and making decisions about how to flock the non-forested parts of the layout pretty soon.

 

 

Change in (Girder Bridge) Plans

Recall that once I had struck out on what for me was a bold project: Scratch building a girder bridge with no prior experience and very little reference material. Well, one of those constraints has changed: I now have a delicious wealth of reference material to work from.


View Larger Map

The Google Maps Street View van drove directly under this bridge, taking a series of very detailed images of the understructure. Indeed, they drove right through the parking lot adjacent to the area of Akihabara Station that I am modeling, giving me quite a bit of new street-level detail I hadn’t had before.

This new source material, unfortunately, renders the plans I had drawn up in previous posts inaccurate. They were close! But not close enough for my tastes. This is worth doing right. That said, I’m pretty excited about the project still, but because my modeling time is given over to Shogatsu, it’ll have to wait until the winter.