LED « Akihabara Station

LED Driver: Test-Type Complete

Test-type in Cylon training school.

A couple of nights ago, I hooked my custom LED Driver up to an Arduino running some custom software, and 16 LEDs. And, who’d have thunk it: Worked on the first try! So many things could have gone wrong between the circuit design, the hand-soldering (jumpers, burn-outs), and the programming. But [...]

Kato 651系 DCC Pt 1.5: Interior Lights Nearly Done

Just an update on this project. I managed three more cars in one evening, for a total of four out of seven. It’s tedious going, but I’ve got the hang of it now. What’s slowing me down is cleaning the trucks: They’re filthy! Spent the evening with a bowl of rubbing alcohol and a supply of [...]

Kato 651系 DCC Pt 1: Upgrading Interior Lights

Kato 10-173 651系 'Super Hitachi'

So, you have just purchaed Kato 10-173 651系 (651-series) “Super Hitachi”, and want to know how to convert it to DCC. I’ve just begun this process myself; here is part one (of many!) of my report.

The 651系 is factory-fitted with interior lighting, a nice touch. But, being bulbs, those lights have to go. For one, they draw a ton of current—55mA/bulb @ 9 bulbs = almost half an ampere!—which limits the number of trains that my Digitrax Zephyr can drive simultaneously from two to one. For another, bulbs get hot when powered by AC, and DCC is AC. Some people have reported that Kato’s bulb-based interior lights cause meltdowns when run on DCC. I don’t have a link, because I think this claim is largely apocryphal, but Kato nevertheless cautions against using their bulb kits with DCC. Or at least they did until they discontinued those sets. Anyway, Kato’s LED interior lighting kits aren’t compatible with the 651系. You’ll see why below. This means we’re going to have to improvise something new if we want to run out 651系 on DCC.

Continue reading…

Next DCC Conquest: Kato 651-series

The EF81 done, I’ve been trying to decide what DCC project to tackle next. I’ve settled on my Kato 651-series for several reasons. First, the set is being re-released next month, which means a new wave(let) of interest. It also means a new wave of spare parts if I mess up. Too, the pre-fitted interior lighting—bulbs [...]

Small Successes: SMD Hand-Soldering

Hand-soldered SSOP microchip in breakout board

I suppose that not all is bad, previous posts notwithstanding. Illness has conspired to prevent me from sharing much of what I’ve done lately, but as I’m feeling better now, here is something new.

Tonight I discovered that I can solder SSOP SMD components by hand with a RadioShack fire-starter, which [...]

Current Draw

My latest purchase is a Kato model of the 651-series “Super Hitachi”. It’s quite the handsome model, and it includes interior lighting for all the coaches, out of the box. What a nice feature, ne?

A few minutes of running the train, however, and I begin to wonder. My throttle is very warm to the touch, and [...]

Electric Company

Stock photograph of the BBB Arduino Rev E (mine's actually a Rev D)

This weekend, I completed assembly of my first Arduino, a BBB (Bare Bones Board) kit from Modern Device Company. Thanks to Chip for the board! I haven’t tested it yet, because I don’t have, as it turns out, a suitable power supply, nor [...]

Doing Things the Easy Way

Breadboard circuit

After success building circuit described here on breadboard, I began construction of something more permanent this past weekend. But, as I did so, two events conspired to frustrate my efforts. First was the discovery, thanks to a member of the JNSForum, of the Lenz LF101XF function decoder, which does precisely what I designed my [...]

DCC and End Cars: The No-Cut Conversion

OSHI25-901 circuit board

This is the lightboard from the OSHI 25-901 dining car from the Tomix 92950 “Yumekukan” set. This board sits in a fitted pocket in the galley of the dining car. There are three SMD LEDs (the three white boxes on the left); three long lightpipes run from the LEDs to the rear of the car. The middle LED lights the taillights and signboard, and only lights when this car is at the end of the train—it doesn’t light when the car is at the head of the train. The outer two LEDs light two rows of table-lamps in the dining room of the car, and remain lit whichever direction the train is running. The two leads on the right connect directly to two steel strips that run along the bottom of the car and (in addition to providing much-needed ballast) contact pickups in the trucks. So, when +12V is fed across the leads (I don’t know which direction, to be honest), all three LEDs light; when -12V is provided, only the outer two LEDs light. In addition to the LEDs and resistors, there is what I’m guessing is an SMD bridge rectifier (for the table-lamps)? Although it has six pins instead of the usual four. And there’s some other tiny little resistor like thing by the middle LED.

The challenge before me: Convert this puppy to DCC. The board is too small to modify. And there’s no space to construct a replacement board. And, as many of my readers will know, controlling two independent lights with a DCC decoder requires three wires: Two “function” leads (that when activated, short to ground; when inactive they are left floating), and the +12V blue common. In my favor, there is a fair amount of room in the galley for additional circuitry, beyond just a decoder.